Taking
the photos:
Up until the end of 2003,
the Photographs taken for this site were taken with an Olympus C-2020 Z
digital camera. I used the highest resolution (1600 X 1200) when
taking the photos, then reduce them for posting here. I usually
reduce them to 550 pixels on the longer side.
Then for a while I used a
Fuji FinePix S7000. This camera was a 6.3Meg image capacity (12Meg
RAW), and much better flash and image control. I have also added a
Macro Ring-Flash for better lighting. I also use up to 2 Slave
flashes -- one with a silver umbrella and one for background light.
Currently I am using a
Fuji FinePix S9000 with 9.1Meg capacity (18Meg RAW).
We take most photos of
models at 9Meg, reserving the 18Meg for greater detail, and photos taken
specifically for modelers.
I had been using a piece
of frosted plastic in front of the flash to soften the shadows in
close-ups, but the Ring-Flash does a better job. Sometimes I take
the photos without using the flash... this seems to make the contrast
better, and the colors cleaner. And it is better to use a slight
telephoto setting than wide-angle. Wide-angle will distort
straight lines more... and cause them to appear curved.
Also I make sure to use
the correct White Balance setting. It's easy to leave it on
Automatic, but this often will leave you having to adjust the color of
the photos. This is especially true if you take the photos under
florescent light. So set the White Balance to Indoor, Tungsten
(including Halogen), or Florescent lighting as appropriate.
The Fuji S9000 has a
custom White Balance as well... allowing us to set the WB specifically
for the lighting conditions at the site.
Saving & Editing:
I ALWAYS keep unedited
copies of my photos on DVD before editing any of them... just in case I
mess something up. Also if you save in jpeg, you reduce the
quality when editing the photo, so keep an unedited copy.
Good photo software is
important... I use
Paint Shop Pro Photo for most things related to the site.
If they need adjusting, I
first usually adjust the gamma and brightness of the photos. Gamma
adjustment seems to generally have a better affect than adjusting the
contrast. This is usually not necessary with our new camera set
up.
I also crop the photos,
but not too closely! Leave enough room around the model to give
the right look... I usually like to get the model to be about 2/3 of the
photo's size.
Also watch for other
models around the edges. Especially at model shows, you will
usually get other models slightly in your photos. It's best to
either crop them out entirely, or leave enough so you can tell what it
is... little pieces of unidentifiable model can distract from the object
you want to show.
Original digital photos
are usually too large to post
—
a 1.5Meg photo may look nice, but someone with a dial-up Internet
connection will not want to wait for it to load. I reduce them so
the long side is 550 pixels (usually). This makes the finished
photo somewhere between 30k and 70k... further reduction can be done
too.
These are just some of my
ideas... and what I have found that works well for me.